10/28/2015 10:43

What’s on your mind? I see this every day I go to Facebook, so I thought, today this is on my mind…….THE DAY…..I’ve been asked to write a short surf bio focusing mainly on a completive surf history, what’s difficult and most important is adding, The Day…….Every surfer regardless of stature has had one. The Day when all was perfect, anyway as close to perfect as one can get……..You and a good friend are surfing, uncrowded morning off shores or evening glass off, with a nice swell running, tubs, make that second break, paddle back out and catch the next set and do it all over again, and again and again. Everything in tune, you and the wave, you’re locking in with the natural rhythm and patterns around you. You are building memories and feelings you will remember always, Sandy Hook, Kiernan, Hatters, Swami’s, Rincon, K-38, Sun Set, Hanalei Bay, Acid Drops and truly, truly the best place surfed is that place without a name your own place. THE DAY and then comes the next, THE DAY.